Numine.com
Letters to the Dead
by Kat
When I lived in Tokyo, I often visited Meiji Shrine. Though the original burned down (as much of Tokyo did) during the fire bombings of World War II, the new shrine is just as much of a quiet retreat.

One tradition in Japan is that all girls who turn twenty during a given year dress up in bright kimono on Seijin No Hi(Coming of Age Day) and visit special events and local shinto shrines. Because Meiji Jingu is the largest and probably the most important shrine in Tokyo (and maybe because it's near Harajuku), it's the place to go.

Unfortunately for me, I didn't turn twenty the year I lived in Japan. I turned 21. Booorinnnng. But my host mother decided that before I left I should get a chance to be dressed in furisode (the fancy kimono) before I left. When Justin came to visit she rented and adorned me in a lovely kimono, complete with updo.

Naturally, we had to visit Meiji Shrine. It was the only time I felt like I outshone the cosplayers on the bridge between the station and the gate to Meiji... but I couldn't get more than five feet without someone stopping me to take a picture. Right as we arrived, Justin took this photo of some people who had wanted/were taking pictures with me:



What you can't see is that I'm holding a book behind my back that one of those old women took from the rolling suitcase and graciously handed over. It was completely in Kanji and I had no idea what it was.

When we returned to my host family's home, probably some time later, I asked my host mother what the book was about. She looked at it for a few minutes and told me it was a "cult thing." So I kept it and transported it back to the states with me but never once attempted to read it.

Last week, we went to a coworker's Christmas party. He'd spent ten years in Japan and had just moved to Seattle with his Japanese wife two years ago. After talking at some length, I told him about the book and brought it in yesterday for his wife to interpret.

Today he told me that she read it while they were having lunch together. He looked over and was surprised to see her crying. The book, it seems, is the eighth volume of letters collected from friends and family of the war dead enshrined at Yasukuni.

Yasukuni Shrine is always at the center of some controversy. It is dedicated to the spirit of soldiers and others who died fighting in the name of the Japanese emperor-- including war criminals. Certain Japanese and many Koreans and Chinese always protest when cabinet members, particularly the Prime Minister visit Yasukuni to pay tribute... even if it is a ceremonial gesture.

Why my host mother would tell me this book was from a cult is beyond me. Actually, I think NOW that I might be confusing THIS book with another book that either the women or someone else gave me-- a book that I might not have any more. There's a nagging feeling of confusion about the whole memory, primarily because I have no idea which case is correct. But it makes an interesting story, which is why I'm sharing it here!

Posted on December 19, 2006 @ 8:28 PM | 0 comments

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